Greece is the land of sun, great food, kindhearted people and endless beaches.
Whether it's lush mountains with gorgeous rivers, crystal clear, turquoise waters or ancient monuments you're looking for, all can be found within a few hours from each other. Here we guide you through the narrow streets of the traditional villages in Amorgos to its paradisiacal coves that await to be discovered.
Amorgos is the island of infinity blue and there's a very good reason for that. Its south-western location keeps the island quite a long distance away from neighbouring islands. When visiting its southern side you will be met by views that are simply majestic. There, the deep blue of the sea disappears into the cloudless horizon creating a dreamlike scenery you won't want to leave behind.
Mirka has been in love with Amorgos since her first time there, a few years back and so it became her go-to summer destination. Since the day we met she always shared stories of her time on the island, with eyes and words overflowing with love and excitement. 3 years later we finally made it there together and I now understand why all the hype for this island.
As with most islands in the Aegean it can be pretty windy, non-stop during the summer months and on top of that the winding roads might not appeal to many visitors. This is why the island remains relatively quiet compared to other Cycladic islands, however the breathtaking views, the crystal clear, blue waters and the incredible hike trails make Amorgos a must see destination for all.
A bit of history
At the hill-top of Minoa clay vessels where found, dated from the late 5th millennium BC, which proves that settlement on the island began around that time. Amorgos played a big part in the development of the Cycladic civilisation during the 3rd millennium BC until Crete colonised and controlled the island making its main sea trade station. Fast forward to 7th Century BC, political and social development came subsequently after the colonisation of the island by the Ionian League comprised of 12 Greek city states. After that, Amorgos was taken over by the Athenian state, then the Ptolemies, followed by the Romans until the arrival of Christianity. It was during the Byzantine Period that Chora (Χώρα) was formed and a bit later on, in the 11th century the famous Monastery of Panagia Hozoviotissa was build which happens to be Greece's 2nd oldest monastery. In the 1st place is considered to be The Monastery of Mega Spileo in Kalavrita.
Then the pirates came, took over for a while, around 1200AC the Byzantines came back, then the Venetians followed by the Ottomans who stuck around for nearly 300 years until the Greek revolution that finally freed the island as well as the rest of the Cyclades.
We chose the easiest and cheapest way to get to Amorgos, which was taking a Blue Star ferry from Piraeus Port at 6.45 am. It took us around 8 hours to get there but that's because it stops at 4 or 5 other islands which makes it totally worth getting to the boat earlier so you can find a nice spot to sit outside. There is a certain harmony in the architecture of all Cycladic islands and you notice it as you pass by. However, I really loved the unique character each island holds. We arrived at Katapola port around 15:00 and were met by a lovely gentleman named Kyrios Giorgos who showed us to the car we had rented for the time we were in Amorgos. As with most Greek islands, transportation may be an issue if you don't have a car or motorcycle, yet I was stunned by how many people were hitchhiking there. We would pick someone up almost every day and there was always people on the side of the street waiting to be taken to a beach, a bar or wherever they were staying.
If you're already on some other Greek island you can check out ferryhopper.gr for tickets. Just make sure you book your tickets in advance as especially during August many ferries are full.
Where to eat
I plan most of our trips around food! I'm not exaggerating when I tell you that I first look for places where we can eat great vegan food and then I book flights. Amorgos was an exception in the sense that Mirka insisted we go and also I trust her when she says there's enough good food on the island and Oh, Boy there's good food!
Top top top recommendation! Comfortably the best dinner on the island. Traditional yet with a twist, excellent service, awesome drinks and in the centre of Chora. Must try the potatoes, their Fava and the Mushroom Kritharoto. They also make a lovely Ouzo mix worth tasting.
Not just another falafel place. An amazingly varied menu for Greek standards with good quality and in a lovely spot, nice anytime of the day or night.
More of a cafe/bar than a restaurant but a must visit for their view, yummy salads and friendly service.
Great spot to eat and listen to some live music which is on almost every night. If you see Chickpeas on the menu, give it a try, definitely one of the best things I had on the island.
Where to swim
Mouros & Mourakia
I could literally visit only these 2 spots every single day with no problem at all! Mouros for its incredible beauty and deep waters. Mourakia (pass the restaurant to the left and go down the path) for the nudist part and the quieter spots.
Easy to get to sandy beach with a great restaurant just above it.
Nikouria 3rd Beach
If you take the boat from Agios Pavlos beach you can visit a small island with 3 very beautiful beaches. Avoid the first 2 as they're usually quite busy and head to the third one on the left to enjoy the turquoise waters and silence.
Amorgos offers something for everyone, well nearly everyone at least. Its wild, mountainous terrain, the narrow, windy roads together with the rocky beaches might not appeal to all but it most certainly gives character and some very uniquely beautiful features to the island. If you like the sound of that though, then you will be happy to know that there is the prefect place for you to stay. Whether you're looking to get away from it all and wild camp on a beach or you prefer to spend your days in the luxury of a gorgeous villa overlooking the sea, it's all there.
I hope if you do go, that you love this island as much as I did. I definitely can't wait to go back.
Love & Joy,